Well….

Agencies get hundreds of emails every week from hopefuls, and, frankly, some of them are jaw droppingly bad. Firstly, the shocking amount of sexy/nude pictures that get sent to agencies that represent fashion models is unbelievable. They want to see your bone structure, not your fouf. And most bookers are gay men and hetero females, so it’s not going to curry any favour.

Then there are the people who do not fit one single criteria for modelling. I don’t mean whether or not they are pretty – I’ve already said that being beautiful doesn’t come into it: most models have an original and even alien face. Some models are under 5”9, but we’re talking 5”7 at a push. If you’re barely touching 5 feet, this isn’t the industry for you (remember Kylie is knee-high to a gnat’s arse, as is Tom Cruise, so there could be a career in Hollywood or popdom for you!)

Awwwww, just look at him

The choice of outfit and make up that girls go for their pictures can work against them. Poorly applied black eyeliner, gelled, tight, Croydon facelift pony tails or Van Der Graaf Generator boufs won’t get a bookers attention in the right way. Red lipstick all over the lip line and dry looking powder look terrible.

Unless you’re Robert Smith.

Only Robert Smith can do dragged-through-a-hedge hair, unearthly pale skin and badly applied lipstick.

Lastly, it’s the poses. Everyone looks good from the Myspace Angle ©, i.e. dramatically overhead so your eyes look like a Manga comic’s. But you’re fooling no one: this is about an honest representation of your face, and if the booker can’t see what you really look like, your mail will go straight to trash.

The Myspace Angle isn’t gonna get you signed.

I don’t want to make anyone feel bad here with all this criticism – but it’s worth knowing what not to do before I help you with what to do!

Emailing your pictures to an agency this is probably the kindest method. It’s not face-to-face, so there’s no cost involved in travelling to London. That also means that, if you’re rejected, you don’t have to pretend to smile and not care – there’s less pressure all round.

Here are my step-by-step tips for taking successful to send to an agency…Or indeed, to taking a good selfie…

1) Choose your Agency

They’ve got to be on the AMA! Otherwise they’re rubbish and you won’t get paid – or any decent jobs, nor will you be protected by law.

2) Choose your Outfit

I see every day as fancy dress day. But not when I’m modelling. My booker at Select when I was younger, Sarah Leon, despaired of my ‘suburban grunge’ look (fleeces, baggy jeans, a trillion bangles up each arm) and took me into ‘The Room’ (every agency has ‘The Room’ – in which they lead you and tell you scary things, like ‘you’re dropped’, ‘you need to lose weight’, ‘let’s get you a new look and shave your hair off’ etc). On this occasion in ‘The Room’ she told me to start looking at what I wore to castings as my ‘school uniform’, and when I wasn’t modelling I could wear anything I liked. That worked for me, as I didn’t feel like I was losing my image or identity (even though I really needed to lose those fleeces).

So, if you feel proud of your clothes and see them as your identity, don’t feel as though you’re casting them to the side with your character. See it as like a school or work uniform – you’re just being professional.

I feel boring in this outfit, but you gotta do what you gotta do!

I recommend, for your pictures, a plain vest top (this shows your arms and décolletage) and underneath, wear a normal, not-too-padded t-shirt bra. Even though magazines are full of celebs hoiking their bosoms around their chins, it’s less about the cleavage in modelling. Team this with a pair of skinny jeans, which will help show the shape of your legs. You can team it with a pair of Converse or, if you want, a pair of heels (but nothing too crazy, just a little bit to give you some height). Above shows me in my ‘Polaroid Look’ which is nothing like my usual ‘Bag Lady Look’ that makes my bookers despair…

I MUCH prefer looking like this….

3) Choose your Location

Don’t stand in the kitchen next to the cat litter tray. Don’t stand in front of the bathroom mirror so you can see a reflection of your Grandma’s pained expression as she tries to figure out how a digital camera looks.

I’ll leave it to you to spot what’s wrong with this picture…

Choose a nice, plain (white if possible) wall to stand against. If there is an absence of well-lit, plain walls, choose a garden up against the wall. And if you don’t have a garden? Go to a nearby park (you’ll have to get used to posing in public!) and find an area with a plain background.

4) Natural Lighting

Once you’ve found your spot, see where the light comes in and when it’s best. You want a lot of light, so that your skin isn’t too shadowy – but not so much that you’re blinded. Natural light is honest, whereas flash can be too flattering and dishonest – the bookers want to see the quality and tone of your skin, and colour of your eyes.

Polaroids in my agency are always with natural light

5) Choose your Photographer

Choose someone who’s going to be calm and patient. This would be my mental rundown of those I could pick:

Mum: Will get stressed out by the camera and give up within two minutes, after taking lots of blurry shots as she moves the camera and says ‘I don’t think it’s working’.
Dad: I love my dad, but he takes so long choosing an angle he takes pictures of bored, double chinned, blinking people.
My brother, Andrew: would laugh at me for ‘being a poser’ and tell me to copy catalogue poses like this.

This actually looks a bit like my boyfriend and me.

I would get stressed and start crying, ruining my natural make up.
My best friend, Vicky: A serious contender, she wouldn’t make me feel self-conscious. However, I fear we’d talk too much and forget the task at hand…
My boyfriend, Theo: Understands good lighting. Can work a camera. Won’t laugh at my posing because me earning money means he gets fed nice food.

His granny taking this pic sort of ruined the vibe he was going for here…

If I had to send my pictures in, I’d choose Theo, because he understands what takes a good photo – and I’d feel comfortable, which would show in the pics.

6) Natural make up

A tiny bit of light powder (I recommend Pixi, as it’s talc free and super-light), a curl of your eyelashes and a bit of lip balm on your lips is all that’s needed. If you feel self-conscious, don’t. Everyone looks more beautiful natural, and if you want to be a model, you’ll have to get use to it.

Pixi powder is the BEST bar none!

7) How to Pose for Polaroids

The bookers want to see your shape and look. Don’t worry about doing mad poses at this point – that comes later!

Pose 1: Stand completely straight

Pose 2: Stand completely straight, sideways on (both sides)

Pose 3: A close up, front on

Pose 4: A close up, side on

Pose 5: A close up, side on but looking to camera

Pose 6: a smile – if you feel comfortable!

The perfect Polaroids! You can see her shape, her face and her character. A bikini is a good idea but if you feel more comfy in jeans and a vest top, go for it.

Some agencies have a form to fill out where you just add your contact details and photos, whereas others you can email. If you’re able to put in some text, make sure you write a friendly little intro to yourself. Say hello, tell them your name, age and measurements, but add something to make it memorably – what is a notable hobby of yours, what interests you? Get your lovely personality through into your email to them.

Remember – a good model doesn’t just have lovely bone structure, she’ll have oodles of personality, too. Bookers are always looking out for a gem like that! Good luck!

Rebecca x

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When I started modelling, I was the least persistent person in the world! Though I was friendly and confident socially, I was quite meek and not really someone who could stand up for myself. This was, of course, partly due to the fact that I was barely 16 in a very exciting but intimidating adult industry, in which the threat of being dropped felt like it loomed at every corner.

I was as meek as this baby pangolin

If an agency abroad didn’t pay what they owed me, I shrugged my shoulders and left it*. If I was sent on a stupid pointless test shoot on a day that I had a shed load of amazing request castings, I quietly deferred to my bookers, not wanting to ruffle any feathers. I put off asking for money because I didn’t want to annoy the accountants.

Well, they days of being that meek, baby pangolin are far behind me now! I’ve now learnt that persistence pays off, combined with standing up for yourself. This is for any career, not just modelling, so I’d love to share my top 5 tips for being persistent in modelling, freelance work or, indeed, any career.

*Including one job for 28 thousand Euro from one agency in Paris!!! *face, palm, sigh, eye roll, fist shake*

1) It’s Your Money, Chase It

Clients being slow to pay is just a part of the job, I’m afraid, and it’s not your job to chase them: it’s the task of your agency’s accountant.

However, once it is in, it’s rightfully yours. I am so thankful to be at an agency, Bookings, that pays whatever’s come in right away.

But I shouldn’t be thankful! It’s what they’re meant to do.

Not mentioning any names, but I have been at an agency that were incredibly slow to pay. When they did pay, there were errors and the unclear statements they would eventually send me made it difficult to know what I was owed. The agency wasn’t on the AMA, which made it hard to get what was rightfully mine.

In the end, tired of politely asking for my money, I took matters into my own hands. I rang up the clients themselves (such as national newspapers and large clothing brands), asked for their accounts departments (so it was pretty scary!) and received confirmation of when jobs had been paid (sometimes up to two years previously. I know, terrible, right?) This I then sent to the agency and demanded payment, which was legally owed to me. Eventually, I got my money, but it was only through dogged persistence and a lot of angry tears.

The character I channelled when chasing my money: there was No More Mr Nice Guy.

Lesson #1: If you’re not at an agency on the AMA, this might happen to you!
Lesson #2: You’ve done a days work, and contractually you are owed money by the client and the agency. The law is on your side, but you will have to take matters into your own hands and chase it. It might have to come down to the Small Claim’s Court.

2) Learn from Every Rejection

Eurgh, easier said than done! When you’ve done a day of castings and one or two felt like they went amazingly, and then you don’t even get optioned, it can really get you down. The only way I can deal with it is to see what I could change next time. This could be…’my hair was still wet from my shower and looked all flat. Next time I should be more groomed,’ to, ‘I should have struck up a conversation with them instead of looking at my toes, shyly.’

Voodoo dolls in the image of your rejecters are another option.

It’s not really something I’d recommend – Jumanji put me off magickey voodoo things for life – but it’s an option!

3) Every cancelled optioned is disappointing – but at least you were optioned!

If I had a penny for every time an amazing option has been cancelled on me, I’d have spent it all on gin and drowned my sorrows.

Gin. That is all.

Sometimes you get optioned and that’s that – you’re probably never going to get booked by them, ever, because they will be looking for someone with a different look next season.

HOWEVER

a) You were optioned! Out of thousands of girls in London who they could have cast, and out of the hundreds of models that they requested to see, they narrowed it down to just a few – and one of them was you! That means you’re doing something right. I find it a bit of an ego boost to imagine that out of all those girls I stood out…(although it doesn’t do my bank balance any good…)

b) All those clients at the casting liked you enough to option you this time – and they’ll all be working on other shoots in the future. If you make yourself stand out enough, you might get a different job in the future.

c) It’s better to be optioned and cancelled than not to be optioned at all. That’s seriously gin-inducingly depressing when you’re going through a quiet patch.

4) Don’t lose sight of your goals

It’s so tough to remain strong, hopeful, optimistic and realistic in this industry. Some people will never make it. Some people rise to the top almost instantly, like Kelly Mitendorff.Kelly was an overnight success.

Cara is enormous now – but back in the day she was doing humble e-com with ASOS!

A miserable looking Cara…

Whereas Lara Stone was working away on my kind of level of modelling til she was about 26, and hit the big time later on.

 
Lara is one of my favourite models – so much attitude!

Modelling isn’t like exams, for example. If you revise hard enough, memorise the facts and get your technique just right, you can get 100% – in modelling, you can dream of Vogue, but you can’t guarantee Anna Wintour’s gonna book you! However you can decide that you want to slog it out, doing your castings, downing gross green juices and putting up with rejection because you want to be a successful, working model. The models with ambition and drive always stand out and the energy they put out means that they often succeed.

5) Stay in touch with clients you’ve worked for

Follow them on Twitter, follow their Facebook group, get their private email. That way you can chase pictures, which will help your book along and keep your look fresh. It also means you can stay present in their minds – important when they’re trying to book models at the last minute. Your agency is meant to do this, but realistically they’re not going to do that for every single test or tiny job that every single one of their models work on, or they’d never get the more important job of booking your next shoot done.

The main lesson here is that persistence in this industry is as much up to you as the people that represent you. Take control as much as you can, and try not to lose heart – your persistence will pay off in the end.

Rebecca x

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I’ve had the idea about writing advice for New Faces for at least a year. I thought it up whilst on a jog – apparently jogging actually jogs your brain cells while you’re running, and I have had lots of my best ideas whilst wheezing through one of my laughably unsprightly jaunts. I also spend a lot of my time mentally arguing with owners who don’t pick up dog pooh, or thinking, “that’s a nice staffie,” or “look at the green leaves!” So don’t quote me on that.

A lovely staffie – they’re softer than you think!

Anyway, I nurtured the idea, not actually doing anything about it because I am useless with technology. If my blog could just be ready and waiting for me to do the only thing I know to do on a computer – type words and press enter – I’d be laughing. Instead I had to make myself read about ‘web hosting’ and other interminable stuff. So I didn’t do anything, or tell anyone about it, for ages. By not telling anyone about it, I didn’t have to do anything about it!

I was very frustrated at my inertia, and happened to tell Alan Kitching, the amazing master of typography about my plan. I cheekily asked whether he’d do my logo. Amazingly, he agreed!

Alan does frequently get mistaken for Santa Claus – well they are both fans of whiskey!

And when he unveiled the logo he’d printed it was just what I needed, the spurring on to do what had been in my head and heart for ages.

Excuse the below-par photographs I took of them, but here are the stages of ModelTypeFace he went through to get my logo. I didn’t go with the final even though it’s my favourite, as my panel of experts (my boyfriend, his Mum, and Alan) felt that the second would work for the website as it’s graphic. But the others are there for future use. I’d love to make them into a T shirt!

Each one of these is amazing in its own right!

So, Alan has been at the top of his game for a number of decades now. I’ve done one of his printing courses: Alan Kitching’s Concise Letterpress Workshop, and it’s SUCH hard work – mentally, physically and creatively. You have to be able to measure out and space the fonts accurately, decide on the colours you want to mix, create the layout and then you have to actually do it – and that machinery is pretty heavy!

Me doing a printing course in Alan’s studio in Kennington

What took me 2 days to do, Alan could probably do in an hour! He has the largest collection of (beautiful) type in the world, and it’s quite a sight to behold all of these fonts in different sizes. Standing amongst all those endless combinations are really quite an exciting feeling.

But can’t computers do it all these days? Well yes – they can – which is why the printing industry has largely died off. But because it’s largely died off, Alan’s work is more in demand than ever. Huge companies work with him, and his courses book up quickly as people want to return to the old days where you could touch your work. He always tears his paper – never cuts – and the textures, colours and human touch to his work is what makes it so beautiful, and stand out so much.

Alan’s work for San Miguel

Alan’s work for the 2012 Olympics

It’s a bit like people saying they miss the old days of film photography. Now we have everything instantly on the computer screen with digital, which creates mega airbrushed models who look like aliens – whereas, in comparison, film could produce grittier, more multi-faceted images. Some this attitude can be put down to nostalgia, yes, but it’s also that we feel increasingly disconnected from a tactile and warmer world.

Without Alan creating such an incredible and professional logo, I’d still be sat chatting to people saying, “I’ve really gotta start my blog.” He’s such a huge name, with an established reputation throughout the printing and art world, so I’m ridiculously lucky that he made me my logo. It means I have no choice other than putting all my heart and energy into creating a blog to be proud of!

Rebecca x

Alan’s website for booking a course: www.thetypographyworkshop.com
Where to buy Alan’s work: www.advancedgraphics.co.uk/kitching/kitching-alan.html
There’s also an exhibition of his stuff at the LCC in Elephant and Castle at the moment and it’s well worth a check out!

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Apparently we all beatifically fight one another all the time

Well let me tell you what my experience has been: nothing could be further from that misguided, clichéd misrepresentation. I have met some of the most wonderful, supportive and fascinating people in my job. Granted, many of them are fruitloops, but if you become a model you will find that the solitariness and peripatetic lifestyle of modelling encourages you to instantly bond with people.

Cara and Jourdann are bezzies

However – and it is a big however – you need to remember that, though people are genuine, the friendships are rarely going to stay that intense forever. You’ll get used to going on trips, on which you’ll share your innermost secrets, feeling like you’re having the best time of your life…only to walk away from everyone at the airport, while the next model comes in for her few days of shooting. You may never see any of them again. It seems fake for those not accustomed to the lifestyle – but it’s not, and I’ve learnt to embrace it.

I call the relationships I form with people on shoots ‘genuine acquaintances’ – you really do like each other, it’s just that it’s impossible to stay best buddies with every single person you meet through this job, forever.

I didn’t really realise any of this until I went to University. I thought I’d made dozens of great friends in my fellow models, bookers and photographers. But when I headed off to Bristol to study…I didn’t hear from any of them. None of them came to visit me like my school friends did. And when I came back, they were happy to see me but most didn’t even realise I’d been away!

Apart from Joe Moreline, of course…

If you can make just one friend like Joe from modelling, you’ll be winning!

It wasn’t through malevolence – it’s just that everyone is moving around so much, working in different countries or off to Uni themselves, they’re used to not seeing one another for a year or more. I learnt my lesson: though you have a great time with people, making great mates and some really wonderful friends in the fashion industry…

…In most cases, no one will compare to your original friends from your original hometown, who saw you through your ‘embarrassing Goth phase’ or saw you naked and drunk on holiday, trying to put a bag on over your head, and helped you put your nightie on instead and tucked you in for a nice sleep with water by your bed (thanks Christine!)

So my best advice for modelling is embrace the brilliant people you meet. Talk to them, learn from them, party with them and totally make great friendships. It’s not about bitchiness or fakery in this industry, no matter what the media says!

I have model friends in New York who I’ve never met (Hi Hartje!) as well as my officially hashtagged #bookingsfamily – my agency has a bevy of lovely girls and bookers who all get on, encourage and support one another. I’ve even had some of them round for my famous blueberry cheesecake!

Winning friends and influencing people via a crumbly biscuit base. Feng, Rudie, Caroline and Emily are all at my agency, Bookings.

I love the variety of people who I’ve met, bonded with and who have supported and entertained me throughout the years! But never, ever, ever stop nurturing your friendships with your original bestest friends, no matter where in the world you’re shooting. If there’s one thing you need in modelling, it’s to stay grounded – and your best friends probably don’t care about who opened for Balmain this season and prefer heading out to Wetherspoons than whatever shiny club that promoter’s inviting you out to tonight. Your best friends will keep tagging you in embarrassing photos of your Goth phase, and continue to tease you about boys you’ve regrettably snogged, and that’s great – because in modelling, you never ever want to lose sight of where you came from (Morden, in my case).

Rebecca x

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So far my posts have been fairly witty (I’d like to think), informative and supportive. Well today I’m ANGRY. I just read this rather mean article:

http://theblot.com/an-open-letter-to-kendall-jenner-about-her-model-bullying-7725835

Which desperately attempts to justify bullying behaviour towards Kendall Jenner by suggesting that other people work hard for their spot on the runway or a campaign, whereas Kendall has waltzed in after her mother, Kris, rang up Marc Jacobs himself to wheedle her daughter onto the catwalk. Who knows how much of this is grandly over-exaggerated for column inches, but I can easily imagine there’s more than an ounce of truth about the nastiness in there…

Well the first thing I have to say is…

Bullying behaviour is never, ever, EVER justifiable! It’s mean, nasty and cowardly.

Didn’t we all learn from Mean Girls?

Even at my grand old age, I reckon people saying bitchy things about me and stubbing their fags out in my drink would make me cry and feel terrible for ages. Kendall might be loaded and the child of famous parents, but I bet it affects her, too. If I was backstage and saw this behaviour? I would…

1) Go over and chat to her (if her PA let me through) and let her know that not everyone was hating on her. I despise bullying.

2) Take a selfie with her and get a few thousand of her followers, because I have 376 followers and she probably has a zillion.

OK I know that’s being a bit irreverent but seriously – we should all be sticking together. I truly, strongly believe in the power of unity and, in such a female-dominated industry as modelling, sisterliness. What’s to be gained from stubbing your fags out in someone’s drink other than spreading your toxic hatred? It just reeks of sour grapes.

Kendall and her nipples for Marc Jacobs

I totally understand the frustration that lots of those models feel seeing Kendall succeed without having to do much of the dirty groundwork that everyone else does. Especially after the hundreds (literally) of castings + starving themselves + glut of rejection they’ve endured, all in aid of merely trying to get a catwalk show (paid for in clothes) that may lead to an advertising campaign. But there’s nothing to be gained in engaging in bitchy behaviour – not least of all because no one wants to work with a bitch (unless it’s Naomi)

The original Mean Girl – incomparably beautiful but famously a handful!

Is Jenner the first model to be famous because of a family member? No! In fact, most big models have boosted their fame after dating the right actor/rock star, or being born into the right family. That’s a whole other issue unto itself, but don’t single Kendall out as worthy of all this vitriol. Marc Jacobs has been known to play with our fascination with celebrity – remember when he used Posh Spice in his campaign a few years back?! Booking such celebs is probably touted as an post-modern take on celebrity culture…whilst broadening your reach and getting free advertising to their trazillion Instagram followers.

I wish VB would revisit this look…And pose…

Victoria Beckham for Marc Jacobs

Those bitchy models who acted really mean just have to deal with the fact that we now live in a society that valorizes celebrity. Frankly, most of us are fueling that culture with the Daily Mail ‘Sidebar of Shame’ and guzzling up celebrity-endorsed products. Would Cara be so huge without the celeb mates and millions of followers on social media? I doubt it – she’s just canny to the industry and knows that for models, it’s all about turning yourself into a brand these days. Look through the adverts in magazines and it’s actresses selling watches/perfume/sodastreams, not models.

Actors are nicking all of our jobs too – not just Kendall!

Kendall is able to take advantage of that, yes. I’m not sure whether she’d be doing such high fashion work if she weren’t a name – that said she is undoubtedly a gorgeous girl who is apparently great to work with – professional, friendly and polite. Probably more engaging and easy to work with than the sort of mean ladies that stub their cigarettes in others’ drinks, and stand around bitching.

She’s not exactly ugly, people!

Basically: I think it’s a shame that models are losing out on the nice, big jobs to actors and celebrities. Not least because I am a model and I really, really feel the effects. But at the same time, that tells us that consumers these days want more than just pretty faces – they want to know the opinions and the personality behind the people wearing the clothes – and isn’t that a great thing? Don’t make Kendall a scapegoat for doing something that the canny, successful models have been doing for a while: making themselves into more than just a ‘look’ and sending a message with their personality.

Kate Moss is no longer a model – she’s Kate Moss!

People love Cara for being Cara!

Modelling’s always a gamble – you might put in years of hard work for very little pay-off and success. Most of us enter into the profession knowing that. Of course it’s hard to see people succeed when it looks as though they haven’t worked hard to deserve their success – but that is never an excuse to be nasty and treat others with disrespect. Successful models get to the top not just by their looks but by being professional, charismatic and charming. They’re certain not going garner any notable success by spreading their vitriol and fag ash all over the place.

Rebecca x

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213 Oxford Street from 5 pm!!!!

Good LUCK!!!!

Errrrr *immediately drops down and does 300 sit-ups* *in my mind*

What sets his photos apart from other similar shoots of sexy looking ladies by other various photographers, however, is the humour in each shot. You can tell that he and the models have really connected – in many pics it looks as though they’re mid-joke. Having shot with Steven, I know that’s cos they probably are.

 Model Melanie Ribbe has an INSANE body!

He’s absolutely great to work with – mega respectful, often taking direction and suggestions from the model and make up artist. Lots of photographers would never ever do that! (AHEcosthey’vegotmassiveegosAHEM).

All of the top agencies are sending their many of their models – often New Faces – left, right and centre to shoot with him as he never fails to make flattering, fun photos that invariably end up as their comp card. He’s been really interested in ModelTypeFace, coming up with very pertinent comments each time I post.

Because he has so many insightful things to say, I thought I’d ask him some juicy questions to find out for you some of the best hints and tips for successful shooting…

R: Hello Steve! I’m picturing myself as a New Face: awkward, unsure of my how to move my body for the camera, and more used to adults being my teachers at school – not colleagues! How do you feel when New Faces turn up on your doorstep for a shoot with you?

S: I feel very protective of New Faces, especially when I’m their first or one of their first shoots. The way I behave, the advice I give them and how I make them feel and the pictures I produce has the potential to affect their whole career.

R: That’s so true. I was lucky to have lovely photographers for my first shoots and it does make a difference. My boyfriend was scouted but his first shoot was horrible – it put him off modelling for ever. Why do you feel protective?

S: I think it’s a big responsibility. I can’t think of many other careers where you as an adult are interacting with a teenager professionally.

R: Well most of the other capacities would generally be teaching, or medicine, which are heavily regulated by law, whereas modelling isn’t.

S: Exactly, so I find it very important to find the balance between the professional, adult job that modelling is, versus the fact that many of these models are under 18. I talk to the girls about their agency, ask them how they’re getting on, and give them advice on how to deal with certain situations. It can be tough and cutthroat out there, and so many girls aren’t given any information at all.

R: Well it’s great that some people take responsibility for that: most of the time I was thrown in at the deep end, so when people gave me and my parents advice we’d cling onto it like gospel!

So let’s talk about the actual modelling. Are there any common rookie errors New Faces tend to make?

S: Mainly the poses – more specifically, how they think they should pose. I can take for granted the elements of posing that main board girls know – like how to hold your lips (imagine holding a penny between them – feels weird, looks good! – Rebecca).

Slightly parted lips looks good in a shoot, but it makes you FEEL like you’re doing a duck impression…PS a rare ‘no-fringe’ sighting of me!

They’re also often very unaware of their hands. I do see a lot of girls holding their hands behind their back a lot, which is super unfortunate because on camera you can just see their fingers dangling between their legs. You want clean lines.

Another common rookie error is not really comprehending what I’m talking about when, for example, I tell them I’m cropping in for a shot. A Main Board girl would know to pose her body but focus the energy on her face and maybe angle her shoulders. A New Face, however, might still raise her hands in the air, meaning her hands are chopped off. Not a good look.

A mighty fine example ‘cropped-in’ posing!

R: Are there benefits to shooting a new Face versus a Main Board model though?

S: Well I like the fact that the shoot is important to the New Face. Early shoots are exciting to New Faces and new and it’s great to be part of that energy. It’s also refreshing because New Faces are a completely blank slate. There aren’t those catalogue of poses that Main Board girls have, which means that, while you can nail the shot really quickly, it can look a bit generic and not stand out in her book.

Steve says that this is the strongest New Face he’s shot – and what she brings is that her pose is less guarded and more raw than many Main Board girls. Also she has ace brows.

R: I soooo know what you mean. When I was newer I’d try out some pretty funky movements and not feel worried about what I’d look like. Now I know what makes my thighs look thin/what the photographer will go for/what lazy poses I can get away with. I probably took some awful pics when I was younger, but also some more inspired ones.

S: Yep, I do have to direct New Faces more heavily – how to hold their face, avoiding claw hands etc – but we can come up with bolder, more inspiring pictures.

R: So what advice would you give to a New Face heading off to their early shoots?

S: It’s all about the attitude. Occasionally, Main Board girls come to shoot with me and they don’t give two hoots about the job – it’s just another day, another shoot to them. New Faces can take advantage of the fact that they’re interested and excited by it all, and bring that energy to jobs.

Do your research – look in the mirror and learn how the light falls on you best, what angles work for you and lean how to pose your whole body, starting from your toes and working up to the top of your head. A Main Board girl will be poised from top to toe, whereas New Faces can be more uncertain & awkward, and therefore harder to take a really flattering shot of. Check out Coco Rocha and her famous posing for inspiration.

Also, decide before you start working what you are comfortable doing. Sadly, some people on shoots will try and wheedle models into wearing outfits that they’re not initially comfortable with, such as certain lingerie sets. Be prepared to stand your ground and say no – it has to be respected.

R: It’s likely that a 16 year old hasn’t had to stand her ground about what she is and isn’t comfortable with before, especially in a professional capacity. It can be so hard to do, because you don’t want to offend anyone, make a scene, or get dropped. Do you think photographers could make more of an effort to make sure a girl knows she can say no?

S: Definitely. It’s more on the photographer’s plate to do this. I always talk to the model for at least half an hour before the shoot, just to build a rapport with her (which helps with the pictures anyway). That also makes the model feel more comfortable with the team in general. I’ll be explicit in what I want to shoot, how I’d like them to look, and that it’s fine if they don’t want to do it. It’s not in a photographer’s interests not to have a nervous or uncomfortable-looking model, so don’t be afraid to speak up. I want the models that I shoot with to have a great time, for that to be reflected in the shoot, and for the pictures to help with her career.

Having a brilliant time with Steve! I just love this pic.

That means the model should be confident in what she does and doesn’t want to do, and feel comfortable in telling me this.

R: You’ve been really supportive of ModelTypeFace since I started it. Why do you think it’s a good idea?

S: It’s really hard to find unbiased information out there. Everyone else – clients, agencies, bookers, will have their own agenda, where as this blog is by a model, for models, to give support and information. Lots of girls are clueless about the money side of things, as well as how to set boundaries – hopefully ModelTypeFace will arm them with more information and confidence.

Do go and check out Steve’s site! www.smread.com

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The good news is: it’s utterly simple. You don’t need to do any prep for this, apart from make sure you look right – you don’t need pictures, professional make up or to learn any lines. All you need, at this point, is to possess a face and a body that you don’t mind being judged.

If only bookers dressed like this…

So! First things first: I’ve said it before and I won’t get tired of saying it: Only go into agencies who are on the AMA. This is the Association of Model Agents and it means that you have certain rights and protection, by law. DO NOT go into an agency that isn’t on the AMA. I did, and I was burned, by never getting paid on time.

So next you want to check you fit the criteria. Are you 5”7 and above? Are you a size 10 or below? (Or, if over, you may be aiming for plus-size modelling which is cool and well-paid) Are you below 21? If you don’t fit all of these criteria, then you really need to think about whether professional modelling is for you, as you are looking at near-certain rejection. I’m only saying that to maybe prevent someone from feeling hurt, not from any sort of elitist or mean impulse.

OK! So what now? Well, ring up the agencies and ask whether they do walk-ins, and at what time. You don’t want to pop in at the wrong time, as bookers are really busy and you’ll be starting off on the wrong foot. If it doesn’t fit in with your school time or schedule in general, then arrange a time with them. Just don’t go in off-the-cuff, as they might get all grumpy with you for interrupting a call. The best idea is to go in during school holidays.

What to Wear

So you’ve got your list of agencies! It’s time to choose your outfit! A lot of models choose their wackiest, most attention grabbing outfit, thinking it’ll make them stand out…

You have your whole career to wear wacky outfits…

Alternatively, they dress up as if about to hit the town for a night out on the tiles, with sky scraper heels and a face full of slap. Both of these are bad choices.

How much is too much? This much #tangerinedream

 The key words to remember here are:

BLANK

CANVAS

Wash your hair and leave it to dry naturally. Cleanse, tone and moisturise your skin, gently. If you must, apply a little bit of powder to matt down shine, curl your eyelashes and wear a bit of tinted lip balm – NO MORE! The agency want to see the bare beauty, the bare skin and the bare bone structure that they’d be working with were they to sign you. If you were to walk in in your brother’s baggy T shirt, a pair of your Dad’s dungarees and no make up at all, you’d still be signed if you had the right face. Agencies aren’t as dumb as their reputation! You must be comfortable with looking natural if you want this job! I like to wear red lipstick. I LOVE my People Tree clothes of floral dresses and clompy boots. Below is an example of what I have frequently been seen in public wearing – and not on fancy dress days…

 One of my more toned-down looks….

However when it comes to polaroids, I follow the ‘blank canvas rule’ and duly don my plain black vest top and black jeans. Boring, but professional. Here’s a polaroid of me, in said boring outfit. You only really look at my face, where as in the previous picture, you see everything but my face!

As for clothes: the more boring, the better for a walk in. A simple dress or, ideally, a pair of skinny jeans with a plain t shirt/vest top is ideal. It allows them to see your body without having to ask you to strip to a bikini (a bit painful for a total newbie). As for shoes – heels or sneakers are fine, but not platforms that launch your upper body into the outer hemisphere. You’ll notice, as soon as you start modelling, that your fellow models dress for comfort, ease and travelling on the tube without people taking photos up your skirt than anything else.

The best accessory to take with you in this situation is your mum, your dad, a legal guardian or, if no one else is available, your best friend. You won’t be judged for this by the agency. You want to feel supported emotionally for any rejection, and to have someone to talk through your choices with if you get a few acceptances. It’s also great, from a legal perspective, to make sure that you do have a guardian with you. I went in with my seriously uncool dad (sorry dad, but you do love motorways xxx) to Models 1, and was rejected. It was really nice to chat it through how I felt with him afterwards, plus he bought me a chocolate milkshake and we went to the Natural History Museum.

Doing the Walk-In

So, Today’s the Day! Get their addresses sorted, plan yourself an itinerary, pack yourself a lunch, put your comfy walking shoes on and get out there, head held high and full of positivity!

When you go into the agency, they’ll make you wait for a bit and then someone will come out to chat to you. Chances are, they’ll have made up their mind by the time they’ve shaken your hand. Try to feel as relaxed as you can at this point (I know it’s tough!). There are no right or wrong answers – they’re just trying to get a feel for your personality. Most bookers are very sensitive to the fact that it’s very young teens with very shaky confidence dreaming very big dreams about modelling, so they will be kind and gentle to you.

At this point you may be told that you’re not right. Smile, keep the tears inside, say thank you for their time and go get yourself an ice cream! If you can bear to (no pressure) maybe ask what advice they’d give you for getting signed. It might help you with future walk-ins. Chat to me if you want!

If they’re interested, they’ll now take photos of you. GOD the pressure! I’ll be starting vlogs soon, and telling you how to pose, but what you’ve got to do is keep your face natural! No pouting, no dramatically dipping your chin, no rapper hand signs. Just relax your features, look into the camera, and think about something you really love (your dog, your best friend, your brother (doubtful, you’re your brothers are like mine!)). They’ll do side profile, front on and body shots, and go in and show the other bookers.

Kim shows you how NOT to pose…

Next up is the tense bit. In most agencies, every single booker has to agree a yes or a no, based on your picture (some may come out to meet you, to make up their minds). It’s quite horrible, if I’m honest: a room full of people, judging your appearance and whether they can make money off it. But still – if you want to do this job, you need to get used to that feeling, believe me!

So it’ll be a rejection or an acceptance at this point. If you’re rejected, keep breathing steadily ‘til you’re out of there – you may want a little cry! That’s cool! I have cried many times throughout my career at certain rejections, even quite recently. It just means you’re passionate, plus being rejected on the way you look is a PAINFUL and HARSH feeling, and no one is going to judge you for that.

And if you were accepted? Hooray! I’d recommend heading to all the agencies on the list still, and seeing where else you’re accepted. As I’ve said before, big and small agencies have their different pros and cons, and the best bet is go where you really clicked with a booker or two. It’s fantastic to be signed, but it’s a lot of struggle and hard work from here to establish yourself as a successful, working model. Hopefully, though, support and advice from ModelTypeFace will help!

Rebecca x

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I’m sure you, and this model, always dreamed of walking the catwalk looking like this…

Now you have to be something. Your own brand. You need an ‘angle’ – clients now ring up the agency and say “what does she do?” Rather than “What are her measurements?” (although they still care about those, unfortunately). So this girl, Gracie Van Gastel, is an amazing hula hooper – and was snapped up by Hedi Slimane of YSL to make a video. And just look!

I love this video. Click on the link below to view.

http://www.hungertv.com/feature/hedi-slimane/#slideshow-2

She looks exquisite, swaying gracefully, showing off the movement of the clothes. The video is entrancing, and she has become more than just a model to being a fascinating, absorbing character,  which adds more to the video than just the usual of ‘model sat on a suitcase, looking miserable in the desert’.

Oh wait, that was Shania Twain.

I need this outfit…

In some ways, it’s a bit irritating. I used to just turn up to castings and shoots, be myself, and it was enough to be a good model with a pleasant personality. It got me booked and rebooked which is all you want, taking off my ‘modelling hat’ when I got home to watch Dancing on Ice or walk the dog. Now you have to work at your image, your brand, your social media presence all the time. I used to go on holiday and turn off my phone, not go near a computer, and enjoy a ‘cyber detox’. Now I tweet/Instagram  pictures of my romantic holiday (#holiday! #bikini!) and make sure I’m not too out of the loop. I actually don’t always like it – it can feel invasive and a bit all-consuming sometimes. Though other times I embrace and love it – it’s about learning balance with these things.

However, I think that this development is a great thing on the whole. It’s democratising – models who might not have made it as big can take control a bit, working at their social media following or skills they want to capitalise on – presenting, writing, hula hooping, rollerskating – it’s endless!

You know why else it’s great? Because models have never had a voice before. We’re booked for our faces, our walks and our ability to wear terrible clothes and make them look desirable. Because we’ve never had a voice, other people have been able to label us, to insult us and to pigeon hole us: stupid, boring, pointless, anorexic, bad role models…And we couldn’t answer back.

Now we do have a voice! Through your Instagram pictures, your tweets, your ‘extra-curricular’ you can show how great lots of are: we do interesting things with our day, we study…How much we eat! I’ve gone from being ‘just a model’ to a writer, working at Friends of The Earth as a ‘Model and Bee Activist’ and an Ambassador for People Tree – and I didn’t just get that from possessing a symmetrical bone structure! It’s all because of the person I portray in person and in the cyberworld, as well as my writing.

So what I say to you is: DO STUFF. An Instagram feed of selfie’s are excellent and will get you lots of male followers commenting ‘beautiful babe’…But show parts of your life that set you apart as well: perhaps you love working in the dog sanctuary, or maybe you’re keen on yachting. Follow your passions, whether they’re in the fashion industry or completely set apart, because clients want more than just your best facial angle now. They want your whole life to be a fresh angle: they want models to be interesting as well as beautiful and even though it means more work, I also think it’s a wonderful development! I think that’s….

If you don’t know the Fast Show – check it out!!!

BRILLIANT!!!!!

I’ll definitely be going into more detail on how to take control and turn yourself into more of a brand, as well as asking fellow models who have gone on to become much more than 5″9 and pretty, including presenters, chefs and actresses, so stay tuned!

Rebecca x

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First things first: they have to be on the AMA! This means that they will work according to certain laws and rules agreed upon by the agency members, so your rights will be more protected than if you were not at one on the AMA. I’ll go into more detail about them, and why you should only go for AMA agencies, another day.

Big agencies

Well, the obvious plus is that they’re BIG! That means that they have the hugest clients, get all of the castings out there and don’t have to fight very hard to get their girls onto big campaigns and into incredible high-end editorials. They have well-established reputations and many big photographers and clients will only cast with these agencies. It’s a combination of it being easier to go for the big ones, and also part of the undeniable elitism that exists in fashion. If you’re at a big agency, there’s a chance of hitting it really big and making big bucks, fast.

The minus, however, is ALSO that they’re big! When I was at Premier and Select, there were at least ten versions of me in town at the same time! It meant that competition could be fierce and, if you weren’t hot that week, you could be easily forgotten under a deluge of, in my case, other brunette models with better books and better bodies. You will have to really work at being remembered by your bookers (not least because there can be a lot of coming and going with bookers at large agencies). It can be stressful and tiring, though of course the payoff is the generally high calibre of castings.

Small agencies

Well, just like I said earlier: the big photographers head to the big agencies, so it follows that the smaller agencies have to really fight for their girls to make sure they get the editorials and shows that they deserve. Smaller agencies like mine are incredibly well-established and have lots of busy, working models – but the agency’s name isn’t always held in the same high esteem as the big agencies, especially for New Faces. That’s why some girls defect to bigger agencies – Rosie Huntington Whitely, for example, started at Profile but moved to IMG.

There’s a big plus to being at a smaller agency though – and that is that they will fight for you to work. The bookers can never be complacent which is a good thing for you. There are also less girls to compete with, so there is less chance of feeling ‘lost’ – Bookings, for example, has a real family feel. I know my bookers well – in fact, I love them – and they are interested in my life, as well as my career. That’s a great feeling to have for the people in charge of finding you work.

I’ve been at the big agencies and I did feel a certain pride when I held my portfolios that brandished Premier and then Select logos. Perhaps I even felt a bit of snobbery towards girls at smaller agencies…However I’ve worked incredibly well at both big and small agencies. That’s because I work hard and I make sure that I make myself memorable to my bookers and clients, making sure to get on with them.

Choosing whether you’re suited to a big agency or a small one is, of course, a huge decision and may well alter your career. However, the biggest factor in the success of your career is you: your ambition, your drive, how professionally you conduct yourself on jobs and castings, and how you get on with your bookers. Keep checking in to ModelTypeFace for plenty of tips on how you can do this, and don’t be afraid to ask me questions!

Rebecca x

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